[Monday] We made it to Paris, after a detour through Switzerland. (We wanted to see the Alps, but had heard it was expensive, so we just took a train through, and then stopped in Zurich to have a cup on Hot Chocolate. It was funny, because they gave us the hot milk and then a packet of chocolate mix to stir in ourselves. It was surprisingly smooth and tasted wonderfully. Just kinda funny.) We had to catch a connection in Milan, which I can say by far is my least favorite city we've been to. But after some issues, we made it to Paris.
We had planned to stay with a lady Amanda kind of knew, but she got sick at the last minute, so we had to book ourselves a hostel. We are staying at one called Peace & Love, and are on the fifth floor after tons of winding stairs. It's quite the trek to get up, and rather dizzying to come down. But we like it overall. We were exhausted that first night after long days of travel and very little sleep the night before. (We had to sleep at the Milan train station, and I didn't sleep much.) So, after some shopping and cooking and emailing, at the early hour of 8:30, we went to bed and slept until 9 the next morning.
[Tuesday] We signed up to go on a tour with one of the people from the hostel. She used to be an American, but has now married a French man and is staying over here permanently. And I can see why. It's funny, because I've heard a lot about Paris and France. I know the people aren't supposed to be nice at all, but the city seems to be wonderful, with the temptation for many famous people to come and stay. And I can say that I found the latter to be true.

Paris had never been high on my list of places to come. I knew a lot of people went there, but I was never really that excited about it. I think, even in planning this trip, I originally was more excited to be going to the Normandy area, seeing the beaches and the tapestry, than I was for Paris. But as the time got closer and more people talked about it, I started being more and more excited. And then, when things started to go wrong, Paris was the place I wanted to get to and the one city I really wanted to see.
It's a beautiful city. Most of the buildings are appealing to look at and then there are tons of actual sites to see. Everywhere is rich with history. Our tour took us down the central area of Paris, starting at Norte Dame. I hadn't realized that the real reason that church is famous is because of Victor Hugo's book. (Who is buried at the Parthenon, as well as the guy who invented Braille.) Yes, it has two of the largest rose stained glass windows and 85% of the glass in the church is original. But overall, I have seen far prettier churches on this European tour. I thought the flying buttresses were part of the reason it was famous, so the church itself was going to be amazing, so I was a little disappointed. It did take over 200 years to build though, taking the longest time of any church in France.

Near Norte Dame, we saw the Shakespeare and Company bookstore. I want to buy a book there. Hemingway hung out there, and James Joyce is only famous because the lady who owned the store finally offered to publish him. At the original location, there were beds behind some shelves, so people really could stay there. Now, there is a reading room, and a used book part, and if you buy a book there, it's stamped with Ground Zero, because Napoleon crowned himself at Norte Dame and declared that Paris, where he was, was the center of the world. (There are apparently mile markers outside of Paris telling you how far away you are from Paris, the center of the world.)

We got to see the Pont Neuf, meaning New Bridge in French, but it's really the oldest bridge in the city. And we got to see the Sex and the City bridge, from the last episode, and I guess people often use that bridge to propose. We also walked on the island where the last High Priest of the Knights of Templar was burned at the stake. (Allegedly, they bought Jesus's crown of thorns and it rests in one of the churches in Paris.) And the garden of Cardinal Richelieu (think Three Musketeers), where the French Revolution started. We walked through a number of Paris's over four hundred parks (few of which allow you to walk on the grass) and got to see statues and the green chairs donated to the city. We ended our tour at the Big and Little Palaces, after learning about the Nazi sent to Paris to destory it by Hitler because he knew he wasn't going to win the war, so he wanted to level Paris. However, that Nazi was so impressed with the city, he stalled and lied and managed to keep Paris much more intact.

Following the official tour, four girls (Hilary, Ali, Amanda and I) all set out to go to the Arc de Triomphe. It was a nice walk, with a pit stop at the Louis Vuitton. We made it to the Arc, which the Romans had inspired Napoleon to build. However, it took so long that he never saw it completed. On his second wedding, he wanted to ride through it with his new wife. So he had his men build a wooden replica in front of the unfinished one just for this occasion.

After that, we headed down to the Eiffel Tower. It was just getting dark and so they lit it up. When it's lit up, they make it sparkle every hour on the hour. We arrived just in time to watch it sparkle across the river. It was beautiful. I thought the sparkling would only last a minute or so, but it went on for five minutes. Quite lovely.

Three of us decided to go up the Tower. We got amazing views of the city at night, all lit up and beautiful. Although chilly, the air wasn't as cold as I was afraid it was going to be. I really enjoyed being up there, and we stayed long enough to see it sparkle again, this time we were on it. It was a great way to end the night.


[Wednesday, officially three weeks] We had originally planned to visit Versailles today, but one of the girls we went on the tour with yesterday, Hilary, was going to see the catacombs, so we decided to go with her. The other girl we talked to, and went to the Eiffel Tower with, decided to come as well. The catacombs were cool, but different than I was expecting. All the time I was walking down there, I kept thinking of "The Cast of Amontillado," even though that was Italy. We came down and there were carvings, castles built into the walls. They were done by a prisoner who was killed in a cave in after trying to build a tunnel down to where he was. The tunnels often had low ceilings that I could have brushed my head against if I tried. After a while, it got damp and dripped.

It had stacks of bones, with skulls throughout. A guard down at the bottom showed us a number of notable skulls, from one old man with a jaw bone still, to a family, to a heart made of skulls arranged in the bones, to a man who was killed by a bullet to another with a hole from a doctor. There are six million people's bones stored here, moved from the Cemetery of the Innocent because of a disease outbreak. A bunch of them were killed in the Revolution. Many of those had sentenced others to death, only to meet the guillotine themselves.

The catacombs were originally a quarry, and took a long time to move. They are now all stacked very neatly with a scattering of bones behind the orderly ones. There are so many of them.

After, Ali headed off to the museums where we planned to meet up with her later when the Louvre tickets went on sale. So in the mean time, we decided to head to Sacre Cour, which is a high point of the city as well as a church. We made it, and got to look down on Paris. It is massive. A giant sea of buildings as far as you can see in every direction. It was strange to look out on. In the other cities when we get up and have a view, you can see other things, rivers, mountains, the edge of the city, but with where we stood looking at Paris, there was none of that.

After touring the church, we decided to find Moulin Rogue, which we knew was close to where we were. Oh our way, we found a bunch of artists painting original art on the sidewalks. Mostly there were scenes from around Paris, but there was one on the corner that was impressionistic with Jazz players that I was quite impressed with. We didn't end up getting any of them however.

It took quite a bit of work and wandering, but eventually we found the neighborhood of Moulin Rogue. It was quite, um, interesting. The entire street is lined with sex shops and shows, with the occasional restaurant thrown in. We did find the famous windmill, but I think I would skip this in the future.

We walked back to our hostel, going through a sketchy part of town. We made curry rice and then headed out to the Louvre! It was evening by this point and the tickets were on sale. We knew a few things we wanted to see, and headed for those first. We found the Mona Lisa of course, which was small and far away. But I got to see it! And we got to see the Venus de Milo, and some Botticelli, as well as numerous other famous pieces.


The things that really impresses me about the Louvre was imagining this as a palace. The ceiling and halls are often intricate and lovely, and yet it wasn't enough for the late king, who moved to his hunting lodge, Versailles. Crazy. I'm glad they have now converted it to a museum.

Oh, and an interesting note, if you're walking around the courtyard, you can see little orange dots on some of the windows. Those are for the firemen if the building ever catches on fire, they know where the most important pieces of art are, and can rescue those first.
We stayed until they kicked us out. I really enjoyed some of the sculptures, and found a piece I would love to own. (I really like the story of Cupid and Psyche, especially the C.S. Lewis version.) Then we went out into the courtyard with the pyramids all lit up. It's really beautiful at night.

We made it back to our hostel where a number of people were hanging out around the bar. I saw someone there who looked familiar to me, and I started chatting with him. Eventually, I asked him if his name was Charlie, and it was! I had met him in South Korea when I was teaching there. We had only met one night, and I had no idea he was going to be in Paris. In fact, he was only in Paris for two days before returning to Liverpool, where he's from. So the fact he was in the city at the same time as us is absolutely crazy; even more crazy that he was at the same hostel that we were. (He used to work there.) I am still amazed at the connection.
[Thursday] We woke up and packed up, ready to head out of Paris for London. It was quite a process for us, because we found it was cheaper to fly from Paris to Glasgow to London than that the train. So that's what we did, and although we had a long day, we made it safe and sound, and even got to eat some fish and chips in the process. So now we're in London. It's good to be back in a place where we can speak the language.
Joke: What do you call someone who can speak three languages? Trilingual.
What do you call someone who can speak two languages? Bilingual.
What do you call someone who can speak one language? American.
I am going to learn German. I am. I am. (Our tour guide (an American) told us that joke.)